Installation Guide

We're super excited to hear your feedback on the installation and performance of the sinks once you've tested them out, send us pics either on facebook or directly at!

Be sure to have two 8mm wrenches/spanners ready to go when you start the installation. 

STEP 1 - Clean the outer magnet ring surface of all dirt and oils before applying the thermal paste, don't use any petroleum based cleaners (WD-40, and many automotive degreasers) The oil, which is engineered to not evaporate, will fill the microscopic valleys in the metal and significantly reduce the effectiveness of any subsequently applied thermal compound.
Keep the surface free of foreign materials and do NOT touch the surface after it has been cleaned. oil and grease and contaminants can affect the thermal interface's performance. Oils from you fingers can adversely affect the performance by preventing the micronized silver or ceramic fill from directly contacting the metal surfaces. (Fingerprints can be as thick as 0.005”)

Step 2 – Test fit the HubSinks around the Hub with the included mounting nuts and bolts, there will be a small (0.5mm) gap in the middle of the HubSink arch,(IF YOU HAVE A QS273, please see further notes below) when you tighten them down after riding (Step 4) this arch will pull flat and spring load against the hub creating a solid thermal connection, NOTE: there will also be a gap between the end of each segment (up to 8mm at first) this is designed to keep the HubSinks pulled tight at all times during thermal expansion and contraction.

Step 3 – Apply the thermal paste/grease to the HubSink piece THIS DOES NOT GO INSIDE THE MOTOR (we want to use the entire 5G tube evenly across the pieces) insert the coated piece between spokes and push down firmly, give the piece a slight twist to ensure the thermal paste has coated the entire connection, continue around the hub in the same manner leaving the fixings slightly loose to an equal amount, then go around the hub a few times taking out half the space of each gap per revolution until the pieces are all tightened down evenly THEY DO NOT NEED TO TOUCH END TO END, A GAP BETWEEN PEICES IS ACCEPTABLE(SEE ABOVE).

Step 4 (important)– Turn the amps up and go for a ride, try to get the hub as hot as possible on the first few rides to get the thermal paste to seat correctly and efficiently, re-tighten the hub and ensure its all fitted well, repeat this for a few rides and performance will increase as the paste fills all the gaps and the alloy pulls tight against the hub.

Step 5 – Enjoy & let me know how it goes, any issues etc!

QS273 HUBSINKS The hubsinks for the 273 are in experimental stages but are working well on some VERY high powered builds, due to the larger size of the motor and sizing differences even between motors with the same branding, the pieces will have a gap in the centre of the arch which you will need to push out.

Lay one piece against your motor and roughly check the arch distance from the motor to centre, remove piece and bend the piece gently, a rubber mallet works well to push the center of the arch down to remove 'most' of the gap, once you are happy with the arch fit against the motor, match the remaining ones to your master.

 Then follow the instructions above from step 1, making sure the thermal paste covers the whole surface

As you tighten them down and they heat cycle, they will come pull tight and and fit against the motor.

Remember the HubSinks work more effectively with Ferrofluid/Statorade (a separate product which goes inside the motor and helps thermally bridge the stator to the shell) so ensure yours is still wet and effective or install a fresh amount of Statorade if required.

- Sketch Coleman